Echoes of the amazing Ghats: Banaras

Kashi Yatri

An Exhibition in Delhi Traces the Artistic Evolution of Banaras Ghat from Colonial-Era Depictions to Post-Independence Indian Perspectives

Banaras, one of the world’s oldest living cities, has been a centre of spirituality, culture, and artistic inspiration for centuries. Located along the Ganges River in northern India, it has captivated artists for generations, each offering unique interpretations of the city. From the colonial era to contemporary times, Banaras has been painted, photographed, and interpreted in diverse artistic styles that reflect evolving perceptions of the city.

Ganga ghat

Banaras: Imagined Landscape – An Exhibition in Delhi

The ‘Banaras: Imagined Landscape’ exhibition at DAG in Delhi, curated by Gayatri Sinha, presents an artistic journey of Banaras from the 18th century to the present. The exhibition is arranged chronologically, offering visitors an immersive experience of how artistic representations of Banaras have evolved over time. Through paintings, etchings, and photographs, the exhibition brings together a visual history of Banaras, illustrating how perspectives on the city have shifted from the colonial gaze to an indigenous vision.


Banaras through the Western Lens: The Colonial Perspective

The first section, Occidental Vista, highlights depictions of Banaras from 1747 to 1947 by colonial artists who viewed the city through a romanticised and religious lens. British artists such as William Hodges and James Prinsep, along with Japanese artist Hiroshi Yoshida, created oil paintings, etchings, and watercolours that focused on Banaras’ grand riverfront architecture and religious significance.

Key Highlights:

  • William Hodges’ paintings (1780s): Often considered the first British artist to capture Banaras, Hodges’ works depict the ghats with an emphasis on architectural grandeur and spiritual mystique.
  • James Prinsep’s sketches (1820s): As a scholar and artist, Prinsep documented Banaras’ temples and daily life through intricate sketches and engravings.
  • Hiroshi Yoshida’s watercolours (1920s): This Japanese artist captured the serene beauty of the ghats, blending traditional Japanese artistic sensibilities with Indian landscapes.
  • Erich Kips’ ‘Benares at the Golden Gate’ and Edwin Lord Weeks’ ‘On the River Ganges’: These paintings present the ghats with a dreamlike quality, focusing on religious devotion and architectural splendour.

Western artists often romanticized Banaras, portraying it as a mystical city removed from the modern world. Their works largely focused on the riverfront, rarely venturing into the city’s bustling alleys and markets. As Ashish Anand, CEO and MD of DAG, notes, “Most artists tended to paint the riverfront with the grand architecture looming over the ghats. Only a few ventured within the city itself, to paint life in the lanes that included the sacred as well as the secular.”


Beyond the Colonial Gaze: Indian Artists Reclaim Banaras

The second section, Views From Within, showcases works by Indian artists who sought to reclaim Banaras from the exoticised Western narrative. Moving away from grand religious imagery, these artists depicted the everyday life of Banaras—its bustling streets, local markets, and moments of personal devotion.

Key Highlights:

  • S. G. Thakar Singh’s ‘Varanasi in the Morning’ (1952): A vibrant depiction of locals starting their day at the river, engaging in prayers and daily routines.
  • M. F. Husain’s ‘Cremation’ (Varanasi Series): A powerful representation of the city’s intimate relationship with life and death, capturing the solemnity of funeral rituals at Manikarnika Ghat.
  • Nandalal Bose’s sketches of Banaras (1940s-50s): Known for his delicate brushwork, Bose’s sketches offer a grounded and personal view of life in Banaras’ alleys and ghats.
  • Benode Behari Mukherjee’s depictions of Banaras: His modernist take on the city moves away from colonial exoticism, instead portraying the lived reality of its people.

These works provide a more humanistic perspective, focusing on the lived experience rather than an outsider’s fascination. Through their eyes, Banaras emerges not just as a religious centre but as a city brimming with culture, history, and life.


Banaras Through the Lens: A Photographic Journey

The final section, Photographic Journeys, explores how photography has documented Banaras since the mid-19th century. The medium has played a crucial role in preserving the city’s essence while also influencing how it is perceived globally.

Key Highlights:

  • 19th-century colonial photographs: Early photographs by British photographers capture the ghats and temple architecture, much like their painted counterparts.
  • Raghu Rai’s photographs of Banaras (1970s-80s): Iconic images of the 1975 Varanasi floods and portraits of the city’s Maharaja in 1986 showcase the evolving urban landscape.
  • Nemai Ghosh’s behind-the-scenes shots from Joi Baba Felunath (1979): A rare glimpse into the making of Satyajit Ray’s film set in Banaras, merging cinematic and real-life imagery.
  • Dayanita Singh’s contemporary photography (2000s): A modern take on Banaras, capturing both its timeless rituals and its adaptation to contemporary life.

Photography, more than any other medium, has allowed for a direct and intimate documentation of Banaras’ transformation while preserving its spiritual essence.


Enduring Legacy: Banaras in Contemporary Art

Even in contemporary times, Banaras continues to inspire artists, filmmakers, and photographers. The city’s unchanging soul—its ghats, temples, and people—remains a timeless muse. As Anand observes, “No matter how much we modernise… the heart and soul of Banaras will never change.”

Recent artistic movements have explored themes of urbanisation, environmental concerns, and the interplay of tradition and modernity in Banaras. From contemporary artists using mixed media to digital reinterpretations of the ghats, the artistic evolution of Banaras is far from over.


Conclusion: Banaras – A Timeless Muse

The Banaras: Imagined Landscape exhibition offers a rare and comprehensive glimpse into how one of India’s oldest cities has been viewed, interpreted, and immortalised through art. From romanticized colonial paintings to deeply personal Indian portrayals and modern-day photographic explorations, Banaras remains an enduring source of inspiration.

As the ghats continue to witness the passage of time, and as artistic styles evolve, one truth remains unchanged—Banaras, in all its spiritual and cultural richness, continues to echo through the canvases, photographs, and hearts of those who encounter it. The exhibition is not just a retrospective of artistic evolution but a testament to the eternal charm and mystique of Banaras, a city that has inspired centuries of artistic expression and will continue to do so for generations to come.

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